We can offer you our best price and will give you a discount if your ordered quantity is big. How do you handle the quality failure? We assure you full refund for quality problem. Place of origin: Guangdong of China 3. Grade: KP 4. Raw material: Cermet 5. Hardness: 92HRC 6. Don't buy spares. Like Mike says, you won't improve machining, but if you get the lazy bone sometimes, or want faster setup, a QCTP with indexed carbides is nice. Just get a cheap set from LMS.
Mines at least ten years old. Oh, C6 is said to chip easier, but I've not used it. Plus you can interchange HSS and Carbide if you ever need to. I would not encourage a noob or those with underpowered equipment to get into carbide tooling except in rare cases and certainly not for form tools like thread cutting, radii, or parting tools. When you consider one stick of HSS costs about the same as one carbide insert and with HSS you have a hundred or more sharpenings, you can grind and re-shape it to any configuration you want.
Therefore, carbide would be the last thing I'd buy as a budget limited home shop machinist. I strongly submit that anyone considering carbide as a means of avoiding sharpening tools or to emulate what the big dogs are doing are followng the wrong path. HSS and carbide have their place. In the home shop carbide can be effciently applied machining hard materials for example were tool wear is a factor but most of the time I would highly reccommend HSS. Here's my prescription: Learn to free hand grind HSS tools on a bench grinder.
Also learn how to touch up bench-ground tools with a slip stone. There's only about a dozen basic configurations and the relief angles and rake angles once learned are almost automatic. Buy a box or two of good quality HSS tool bits that suit your applications and a parting tool or two that fit your parting set-up. I also see carbide inserts for budget prices but you have to bird-dog opportunities and, naturally, be careful you don't purchase the wrong or inferior stuff.
You are gong to make mistakes. So what? Every mistake is a learning opportunity. However, it makes sense to make mistakes on practice pieces and not the irreplacable casting or the workpiece you already have 40 hours in. I recall a fellow who had never cut a dovetail until he made a jewel box of cocobolo - a hardwood sold by the pound stead of the board foot. I suggested he make the box first of pine and use it for tools after it was done. That way he could practice all the joints and techniques on low cost material before he commtted to the high priced whew!!
But no, he made the box of cocobolo and screwed up the dovetails. Only then did he fnd someone to show him how to make them. Like I said. Practice on the cheap stuff. Getting back to carbide Vs HS there is no Vs. Commercial shops use caride because there is an economic incentive when 20 HP RPM spindles, rigid tooling, and rigid machine tools are the rule.
As for C2 vs C5. It really doesn't matter much in alumnum or copper alloys what grade of carbide you use for small volume work. It does on steel particularly alloy steels at max feeds and speeds.
There you will want C5 for roughing and maybe C6 for finishing. So if you had to have a one size fits all carbide inert I would recommend C5. Originally Posted by Luminast. There is something to be said for carbide cutoff tools and carbide insert boring bars. Carbide insert boring bars most often get the insert right out on the end of the bar and at proper center height, with clearer chipflow space than HSS bars with the square hole in it.
The proper insert will also help a great deal with chip breaking, which gets to be a bit of a nuisance when working in holes with HSS because they tend to form continuous chips due to the lack of special geometry on top of the homeground toolbit. But there is plenty of selection in small boring bar sets out there, and not at outrageous prices. The brazed-on insert style bars are not particularly versatile, but good for brass and bronze work or cast iron, since neutral rake is okay for the friable materials.
Get a set of each: brazed on and insert style. So if you've got that much carbide kicking around, you might as well get a few external turning tools, too But use them for roughing as the average home shop application will be a cut and try approach, and inserts generally do not perform well on light finish cuts, unless you can grind carbide to a keen edge and do it often because it doesn't hold up for long.
You might be ahead of the game to finish with HSS. Get a quick change style toolpost to give yourself much more flexibility to use the correct tool at the correct moment, rather than using your finish tool for roughing or the roughing tool to finish because you're too lazy to switch over.
I admit it: I'm almost too lazy to switch toolblocks even when I've got 20 tools set up and ready. Robert Campbell Jr. I pretty much agree with the above. Under normal conditions, with the material you listed, HSS can give you as good a finish as can be had.
As noted, it's dirt cheap as NOS. Too many words to illustrate that having a selection of TC inserts on hand, can be so cheap that it makes sense to cover that base. As mentioned, there are a lot of obsolete inserts going for perhaps a better bargain than the great deals on HSS, original costs of each considered. Obsolete inserts don't hurt me, as long as I can get a good supply in that one buy. Cutting Grade and Condition. It has high toughness of flexural strength and good thermal conductivity, but has a poor heat resistance and wear resistance.
It is mainly used for processing cast iron and non-ferrous metals. It is suitable for processing hard cast iron and austenitic stainless steel. Please contact us for further information.
0コメント